just making sure it still works - but you'd have to hook it to a stun gun

.

So with the ten times faster oscillator, its 10 time faster charge

So, with a 10khz stun gun, you get 60hz reloadable discharge.Without that fancy stuff below is a complete battery regenerator, but its only conservative.  Everythings labeled, you just connect the high and low leads.  The device with run 1000 times longer with a single charge.  The ground is a small piece of aluminum wrapped around the circuit so it grounds to the container, but the negative side of most batteries is harmless anyway.  So, in theory, the 115 should pop, so that it goes to completion, but not hit the battery itself.

It's not quite done, for low voltage applications, you have to swap the trigger with the ground and the vcc, works at zero point even though the ne556 and ne558 advertise 4.5v-18v. They have these 8 pole 8 throw microswitchs if you want for low voltage mode, but I'll assume that much works fine. Or, for less enthusiasm, could add lots of zener diodes and LMC555 and connect the device in series with the positive terminal.  Amount of zeners creates the times efficiency, but they have to stack correctly.  And everything else the best like the diodes.  Capacitors, you just type: 10uf tantalum.  Once your in metal, your totally safe, so the higher voltage, the more elite, just works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPmHLbbcZlk

So, anyway, there's lots of ways to make a refrigerator. The common thing is that a refrigerator sucks to the hot spot. However, a peltier works differently, and as interestingly, supremely defeated with actual work as anything else. 115 Kelvin material hits an iodine membrane and discharges through copper. As thin as possible, this forms a capacitor that works instantaniouly to cool things down.

The iodine, in the pure chemical form will mix with copper to completion, this is still unholy conductive, more iodine on top will result in a pure dialectric layer. As time goes, uncontrolled it will crystalize throughout, so you sort of zap it, just like a 12volt repair job. Also, it's possible to add teflon in order to make it into its own over unity circuit, but by the expected looks on some peoples faces, not before neon capacitation.

The teflon by itself is pretty good, but its also really a weak system. The main idea would be to chain capacitors, and then use an MP3 device to get more energy than you put in. It's blasphemy on two counts. First, why play with AA batteries. Second, once you have enormous amounts of power, what wire will transmit for a useful purpose? Therefore, I don't think the best idea, but somewhat, back to the normal refrigeration idea, would be to cap it and have teflon skin reflect instead of copper.

Stabilizing Mode http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loaxDYWPZ54

A number of people think it gets too cold, so you can see that you add a multivibrator to sections, and it takes about 40 sections. But I didn't add it because it was really long. With this much, it might need a stabilizing mode. Currently, its in compressor mode. The stabilizer mode cuts out the transistor and inductor variably with a 555 timer. I really love these, their full physics timers, there's a mouse autoclicker on youtube if your skidish. I hooked my mouse up backwards because it only draws nano-amps, and it still works! It's just like putting any raw component down. The only drawback is to ensure you get dip packaging because pins fall right off the sop packaging, dangerously tricky to have pins that small. .001Hz to 10Mhz. This allows it to dissipate 64watts as heat energy at 10mhz. Plenty for Oxy-Torch and enough to control the tempurature by resistance drop. Fixing it so you don't need a GROL or HAM is quite a simple task. Wrap it around it since a toroid disipates all of it. I'm suprised they never use it for overclocking.

This side is the conservation of energy function side, rather than over unity. This way, the device can heat up. Like if you made a winch, or backhoe, It might freaze up, but batteries, although postive, will heat by kinetic energy. It's even good at 100Khz just to cool a CPU, no ice can form because crystals require stability and compression, even dust can't touch it because it makes a vacuum. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PILlP_yDZ2o

Temperature Gradient http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-AbEO6J8s0&ob=av3e

The water makes the system fail, so taking apart a freazer and using http://www.texastooltraders.com/Nifty-FST51-5-x-1000/General-Hardware/String-Rope-Twine-Tape/Duck-Teflon-Tape-p6294228.html to wrap around holds it at -35C, then the isopropal + dry ice gradients it by 140C coming out to 98Kelvin, which should be good enough to start working, but ice actually slows it down even through the parafilm, so you still need to spray it with http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Snow-Teflon-Spray-DSR610101/dp/B0031T82NO. This could be used on any computer as well. I've stuck them on raw freazer elements and they just turn to ice in the african plains. Although, freazer elements can be really cheap. Unlike an ice maker, its really noisy, but it never breaks down. Their all the same power mine cost about this much and takes up about as much as five 15in laptops http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM502567201P

Self Super Conduction http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV0KmOYfomM

fill the tube with dry ice and isopropal alchohol, be sure to wrap it so that it can be handled, the best way is with teflon tape. Stick as many circuits in place of the 50k resistor as possible with circuit leads on both sides at the final stage of use. Mainly, its the compression factor, but also its that its really awesomely cold to superconduct. Just by equation and no magic at all, if you plug it in when you add the ingredients, it will just self superconduct. The prinary secret is to force each stage with an astable multivibrator betwean where the battery would go and the rest of the circuit. This exponentiates the power and can suck it down impossibly. Each component should work at absolute zero. The theory is that the components are solids, so only purchase the hardest 24kV + crap because its actually smoother at 10V, and also, the magnetic field will allow it to work better once frozen.

A resistor is a series of capacitors, a capacitor is copper betwean two plates, there's no differentiation whether it was water or jet fuel except that the jet fuel is a liquid crystal, thusly combustible at high temperatures. One good stanglish technique I learned was to turn the soldering iron up as high as it would go, then it just sucks the solder into each component. It's really fast reducing damage to zero, then use a screw driver on the iron to turn it back to copper once all corroded. Requires at least 600degrees to auto solder.

highly recommend you buy this and nothing else http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390120453541, and the tip has to be grinded http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D2Y0

simplfication http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWTwTLj6m6c

Well, I used a transformer and it didn't help, in this configuration I took out the passive components and it will charge another 250Mah battery battery in about 1 minute, but it still isn't fast enough for hovering. If batteries are charged very fast, they'll cook up to a higher voltage than 9V, which is perfect, 8.4 doesn't work at all. After a while, they may be extremely high voltage cooked[frozen] from little use and high charge. http://www.4shared.com/document/BDqJ-mDk/voltage_multiplier2.html
The simplification might be to use a 9.6V pack and just let it die until you reach exactly 9V so it works on its own without extra circuits. Nice slices of copper is how to get around the pico ohm, although those are just for efficiency.

It provides about 11.46 Kwatts at 41.3 seconds and 5.5w at 21.65 seconds, I would say about 11Kwatts before the batteries won't recharge anymore, time for a generator capacitor. http://www.deerso.com/14ODX5UG_COPPER_COIL477222-details.aspx?src=gbs

parts list for dual battery regenerator http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/roses-are-free-by-ween/7208e0da050ec9bf99947208e0da050ec9bf9994-1130585

Mainly, its a good idea to pick parts that are easy to solder, surface mount pins are close to impossible to solder, so I picked the parts out. It's good to leave long 4in. leads, all the stuff should fit if its wrapped around, use electrical tape to isolate groupings. The batteries can drop a charge spontaniously.

1 x 10 pack PNP transistors http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10-X-2SA1015-2SA1015Y-PNP-Transistor-/220623714318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
2 x 5pk diode http://www.newark.com/multicomp/bzw04-31/diode-tvs-36v-400w/dp/08N6246
1 x 50k->1M ohm resistor
7 x 100mH inductors http://www.newark.com/bourns/rlb1314-103kl/dp/61J7946
2 x 100nF capacitor array http://www.newark.com/murata/gnm214b11c104ma01d/capacitor-array-0-1uf-16v-0805/dp/97K0564
1 x 10pk 10uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcgpr35v106m5x11/capacitor-10uf-35v-capacitor-10uf/dp/38K4684
2 x 5pk 50uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/multicomp/np16v476m6-3x11/capacitor-n-p-47uf-16v-capacitor/dp/13M5153?matchedProduct=47uf&whydiditmatch=rel_1
7 x 100uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/rubycon/16yk100m5x11/capacitor-alum-elect-100uf-16v/dp/38M1391
2 x 1K ohm resistor array http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=55R1978&CMP=AFC-GB100000001
1 x 2 9v and bay http://battery-superstore.com/T228-Plugin-Compact-Charger-with-2/M/B001A3JSMW.htm