Temperature Gradient http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-AbEO6J8s0&ob=av3e

The water makes the system fail, so taking apart a freazer and using http://www.texastooltraders.com/Nifty-FST51-5-x-1000/General-Hardware/String-Rope-Twine-Tape/Duck-Teflon-Tape-p6294228.html to wrap around holds it at -35C, then the isopropal + dry ice gradients it by 140C coming out to 98Kelvin, which should be good enough to start working, but ice actually slows it down even through the parafilm, so you still need to spray it with http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Snow-Teflon-Spray-DSR610101/dp/B0031T82NO. This could be used on any computer as well. I've stuck them on raw freazer elements and they just turn to ice in the african plains. Although, freazer elements can be really cheap. Unlike an ice maker, its really noisy, but it never breaks down. Their all the same power mine cost about this much and takes up about as much as five 15in laptops http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM502567201P

Self Super Conduction http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV0KmOYfomM

fill the tube with dry ice and isopropal alchohol, be sure to wrap it so that it can be handled, the best way is with teflon tape. Stick as many circuits in place of the 50k resistor as possible with circuit leads on both sides at the final stage of use. Mainly, its the compression factor, but also its that its really awesomely cold to superconduct. Just by equation and no magic at all, if you plug it in when you add the ingredients, it will just self superconduct. The prinary secret is to force each stage with an astable multivibrator betwean where the battery would go and the rest of the circuit. This exponentiates the power and can suck it down impossibly. Each component should work at absolute zero. The theory is that the components are solids, so only purchase the hardest 24kV + crap because its actually smoother at 10V, and also, the magnetic field will allow it to work better once frozen.

A resistor is a series of capacitors, a capacitor is copper betwean two plates, there's no differentiation whether it was water or jet fuel except that the jet fuel is a liquid crystal, thusly combustible at high temperatures. One good stanglish technique I learned was to turn the soldering iron up as high as it would go, then it just sucks the solder into each component. It's really fast reducing damage to zero, then use a screw driver on the iron to turn it back to copper once all corroded. Requires at least 600degrees to auto solder.

highly recommend you buy this and nothing else http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390120453541, and the tip has to be grinded http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D2Y0

simplfication http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWTwTLj6m6c

Well, I used a transformer and it didn't help, in this configuration I took out the passive components and it will charge another 250Mah battery battery in about 1 minute, but it still isn't fast enough for hovering. If batteries are charged very fast, they'll cook up to a higher voltage than 9V, which is perfect, 8.4 doesn't work at all. After a while, they may be extremely high voltage cooked[frozen] from little use and high charge. http://www.4shared.com/document/BDqJ-mDk/voltage_multiplier2.html
The simplification might be to use a 9.6V pack and just let it die until you reach exactly 9V so it works on its own without extra circuits. Nice slices of copper is how to get around the pico ohm, although those are just for efficiency.

It provides about 11.46 Kwatts at 41.3 seconds and 5.5w at 21.65 seconds, I would say about 11Kwatts before the batteries won't recharge anymore, time for a generator capacitor. http://www.deerso.com/14ODX5UG_COPPER_COIL477222-details.aspx?src=gbs

parts list for dual battery regenerator http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/roses-are-free-by-ween/7208e0da050ec9bf99947208e0da050ec9bf9994-1130585

Mainly, its a good idea to pick parts that are easy to solder, surface mount pins are close to impossible to solder, so I picked the parts out. It's good to leave long 4in. leads, all the stuff should fit if its wrapped around, use electrical tape to isolate groupings. The batteries can drop a charge spontaniously.

1 x 10 pack PNP transistors http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10-X-2SA1015-2SA1015Y-PNP-Transistor-/220623714318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
2 x 5pk diode http://www.newark.com/multicomp/bzw04-31/diode-tvs-36v-400w/dp/08N6246
1 x 50k->1M ohm resistor
7 x 100mH inductors http://www.newark.com/bourns/rlb1314-103kl/dp/61J7946
2 x 100nF capacitor array http://www.newark.com/murata/gnm214b11c104ma01d/capacitor-array-0-1uf-16v-0805/dp/97K0564
1 x 10pk 10uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcgpr35v106m5x11/capacitor-10uf-35v-capacitor-10uf/dp/38K4684
2 x 5pk 50uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/multicomp/np16v476m6-3x11/capacitor-n-p-47uf-16v-capacitor/dp/13M5153?matchedProduct=47uf&whydiditmatch=rel_1
7 x 100uF capacitor http://www.newark.com/rubycon/16yk100m5x11/capacitor-alum-elect-100uf-16v/dp/38M1391
2 x 1K ohm resistor array http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=55R1978&CMP=AFC-GB100000001
1 x 2 9v and bay http://battery-superstore.com/T228-Plugin-Compact-Charger-with-2/M/B001A3JSMW.htm

First Over Unity Circuit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7AMMj32G8Y

I was trying to figure out how to get the hover shoes to levitate with the 9V. I built this circuit, its highly tuned and unchangable, it only works this way. Also, its not flawed, which is why its built this way, there's lots of flaws in the program. The voltage accross the resistor in the diagram below just keeps growing as the current from the output battery remains constant.
http://www.4shared.com/document/lVpHIPEt/_2__voltage_multiplier.html

It gets 5x the watts with household AC