Temperature Gradient http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-AbEO6J8s0&ob=av3e

The water makes the system fail, so taking apart a freazer and using http://www.texastooltraders.com/Nifty-FST51-5-x-1000/General-Hardware/String-Rope-Twine-Tape/Duck-Teflon-Tape-p6294228.html to wrap around holds it at -35C, then the isopropal + dry ice gradients it by 140C coming out to 98Kelvin, which should be good enough to start working, but ice actually slows it down even through the parafilm, so you still need to spray it with http://www.amazon.com/Dupont-Snow-Teflon-Spray-DSR610101/dp/B0031T82NO. This could be used on any computer as well. I've stuck them on raw freazer elements and they just turn to ice in the african plains. Although, freazer elements can be really cheap. Unlike an ice maker, its really noisy, but it never breaks down. Their all the same power mine cost about this much and takes up about as much as five 15in laptops http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM502567201P

Self Super Conduction http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV0KmOYfomM

fill the tube with dry ice and isopropal alchohol, be sure to wrap it so that it can be handled, the best way is with teflon tape. Stick as many circuits in place of the 50k resistor as possible with circuit leads on both sides at the final stage of use. Mainly, its the compression factor, but also its that its really awesomely cold to superconduct. Just by equation and no magic at all, if you plug it in when you add the ingredients, it will just self superconduct. The prinary secret is to force each stage with an astable multivibrator betwean where the battery would go and the rest of the circuit. This exponentiates the power and can suck it down impossibly. Each component should work at absolute zero. The theory is that the components are solids, so only purchase the hardest 24kV + crap because its actually smoother at 10V, and also, the magnetic field will allow it to work better once frozen.

A resistor is a series of capacitors, a capacitor is copper betwean two plates, there's no differentiation whether it was water or jet fuel except that the jet fuel is a liquid crystal, thusly combustible at high temperatures. One good stanglish technique I learned was to turn the soldering iron up as high as it would go, then it just sucks the solder into each component. It's really fast reducing damage to zero, then use a screw driver on the iron to turn it back to copper once all corroded. Requires at least 600degrees to auto solder.

highly recommend you buy this and nothing else http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390120453541, and the tip has to be grinded http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D2Y0