http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPmHLbbcZlk

So, anyway, there's lots of ways to make a refrigerator. The common thing is that a refrigerator sucks to the hot spot. However, a peltier works differently, and as interestingly, supremely defeated with actual work as anything else. 115 Kelvin material hits an iodine membrane and discharges through copper. As thin as possible, this forms a capacitor that works instantaniouly to cool things down.

The iodine, in the pure chemical form will mix with copper to completion, this is still unholy conductive, more iodine on top will result in a pure dialectric layer. As time goes, uncontrolled it will crystalize throughout, so you sort of zap it, just like a 12volt repair job. Also, it's possible to add teflon in order to make it into its own over unity circuit, but by the expected looks on some peoples faces, not before neon capacitation.

The teflon by itself is pretty good, but its also really a weak system. The main idea would be to chain capacitors, and then use an MP3 device to get more energy than you put in. It's blasphemy on two counts. First, why play with AA batteries. Second, once you have enormous amounts of power, what wire will transmit for a useful purpose? Therefore, I don't think the best idea, but somewhat, back to the normal refrigeration idea, would be to cap it and have teflon skin reflect instead of copper.

Stabilizing Mode http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=loaxDYWPZ54

A number of people think it gets too cold, so you can see that you add a multivibrator to sections, and it takes about 40 sections. But I didn't add it because it was really long. With this much, it might need a stabilizing mode. Currently, its in compressor mode. The stabilizer mode cuts out the transistor and inductor variably with a 555 timer. I really love these, their full physics timers, there's a mouse autoclicker on youtube if your skidish. I hooked my mouse up backwards because it only draws nano-amps, and it still works! It's just like putting any raw component down. The only drawback is to ensure you get dip packaging because pins fall right off the sop packaging, dangerously tricky to have pins that small. .001Hz to 10Mhz. This allows it to dissipate 64watts as heat energy at 10mhz. Plenty for Oxy-Torch and enough to control the tempurature by resistance drop. Fixing it so you don't need a GROL or HAM is quite a simple task. Wrap it around it since a toroid disipates all of it. I'm suprised they never use it for overclocking.

This side is the conservation of energy function side, rather than over unity. This way, the device can heat up. Like if you made a winch, or backhoe, It might freaze up, but batteries, although postive, will heat by kinetic energy. It's even good at 100Khz just to cool a CPU, no ice can form because crystals require stability and compression, even dust can't touch it because it makes a vacuum. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PILlP_yDZ2o